Cover story : Post-Katrina Baton Rouge struggles with its identity. I lived in BR from 1991-1995 and hated it. I met tons of great people and it was wonderful being so close to New Orleans Lafayette but what a shitty city. No energy, not much beauty and no style. I remember driving into downtown and thinking, "Is this it? This can't be downtown." There was no movement, there were lots of boarded up buildings, it was barren and drab and that hideous State Capitol! But while there I began to come into my own. I spent the first year or so broke...I discovered NPR b/c I didn't have a TV. I started trading tapes I considered dreadlocks. I was "adopted" by a family of New Orleanian catholics who I adored but I lost touch with when I left. I worked with a painter who is now a rock singer . I regularly sat in on guitar with a regionally famous blues musician. I interviewed Tabby Thomas and had several conversations with his son, Chris Thomas King . I learne...